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Summary
DescriptionShoaling coefficient as a function of depth.svg
English: Shoaling coefficient KS as a function of relative water depth h/L0, describing the effect of wave shoaling on the wave height – based on conservation of energy and results from Airy wave theory. The local wave height H at a certain mean water depth h is equal to H = KSH0, with H0 the wave height in deep water (i.e. when the water depth is greater than about half the wavelength). The shoaling coefficient KS depends on h/L0, where L0 is the wavelength in deep water: L0 = g/(2π) T2, with T the wave period and g the gravity of Earth. The blue line is the shoaling coefficient according to Green's law for waves in shallow water, i.e. when the water depth is less than 1/20 times the local wavelength L = T √(gh).
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== {{int:filedesc}} == {{Information |description={{en|1=Shoaling coefficient ''K''<sub>S</sub> as a function of relative water depth ''h''/''L''<sub>0</sub>, describing the effect of wave shoaling on the [[w:wave height|wave height...